Monday, August 29, 2011

The Chief of the Chiefs II


I have a lunch with Central Press today, with the President of House of Chiefs of Central Region, Daasebre Ewsie Kwebu Vll, counselor of the President and board chairman of Central Press.
I don’t know how Kwamina manages to get to these people. This man is not even chief of Cape Coast, but a different area. We already met him at the house of chiefs for Frances’ farewell. This time, we are going to his place, an hour’s drive from Cape Coast. Another board member accompanies us, Victor S., but Kerstin is sick and misses the event. 
The palace is kept in its traditional way with a balcony and a tiny staircase. Two men in traditional clothes standing on the balcony watch us, as we approach. The rooms are small, rather dark and the walls are hung with pictures of former chiefs and symbols. We wait on some comfortable chairs and after a moment, are called into the conference room. In the middle of the room is a big long table. One wall is hidden by a bookshelf, the rest covered with framed pictures and certificates. At the table, three men with the traditional cloth draped around them, are sitting. Subchiefs who came to see their president, as we are told later. At the head of the table, on a raised chair sits Daasebre Ewsie Kwebu VII, wearing a normal shirt and shorts. This time, perhaps for the first time, even Kwamina has troubles with finding the right words. The Chief himself is very relaxed, though, and Victor’s words sound affected compared with our host’s. Soon a nice conversation is going on about the development in his district, culture and tradition. ‘Without tradition, something is missing. It is dying, but we don’t have to allow it to die.’ The Chief takes tradition very seriously and fights to educate children about it. ‘It is what makes Ghana Ghana.’ From the palace, we are asked to proceed to the Chief’s house. It is a bright, big, generous building. Impressive and worthy of a good chief like this. He is an open-minded, friendly person, definitely a good leader. Victor S. is impressed by the development in the area and he knows what he is talking about. We are served rice and chicken. Unfortunately, the chief himself can’t join us, but only passes by shortly, whether due to a tight schedule or due to tradition. He is not allowed to eat in public. ‘Well, we are not the public, right?’ Over the meal, Kwamina and Victor praise this chief over Cape Coast’s traditional head. He, we learn, does nothing for his district and lives in a tiny place that is not worth of a chief at all. We wonder what he does with all his money then, and the two men suggest that he buys presents for all his mistresses. The lunch is good. When we are finished, the Chief comes to sign our certificates and together we pose in front of the house for the obligatory pictures. His daughter is called Lisa, too, the chief jokes. Now I am his daughter as well. He said that already the first time I met him. I think he remembers our last meeting only faintly. It doesn’t matter. He is relaxed, holds me around the waist and Felix around the shoulder. ‘That’s good. Great. And another one. Good one.’ Soon afterwards, we leave. Not only Felix and I are amazed.